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Which flowers should you grow for cut flowers? The easy answer is, the flowers that you like! However, if you are like me, you like pretty much all flowers.
The real question is, which flowers are the easiest to grow for cut flowers?
Let’s look at perennials and then annuals. There are pros and cons to each. Nearly all of the cut flower varieties, both perennial and annual, need full sun in order to produce as many flowers as possible.
Perennials are great because they come back year after year and generally multiply easily. You have flowers that are right there. Perennials that are good for cut flowers usually do not need staking. They are bushier and sturdier than the annuals.
The downside to perennials? Typically, they have a short bloom period, from three to six weeks. It becomes a challenge to have some flowers blooming at each stage throughout spring, summer, and fall. In order to have the most flowers, plant both the perennials and annuals in full sun. Sun up to sun down sunshine is the best.
Table of Contents
These are my favorite perennials (growing zone 7) for cut flowers.
These perennials have a bloom period of about eight weeks, which makes it easier to have over-lapping bloom times. You can plant perennials nearly any time. Be sure to water well for the first several weeks. Put mulch around the base of the plant to help keep weeds down and the water in. Perennials are pretty hardy and can take it from there.
Black Eyed Susan (Rudbeckia)
These are prolific bloomers and are members of the sunflower family. There are many different varieties and can be yellow, orange, bronze, or a combination of colors. It is a very low maintenance plant. There are both perennial and annual varieties, so check to see which you have. The annual varieties will re-seed easily if you leave some flowers on the bushes at the end of the season.
Cone Flower (Echinacea)
There are many different coneflower varieties! ‘Green Twister’ produces prolifically with lime green petals and a purple center, with the petals curving upward. ‘Magnus’ has large reddish-pink cone flowers with deep orange centers. Echinacea is a butterfly magnet, and these varieties are easy to grow. They withstand drought, humidity, and harsh winter weather. This native perennial does not need dead heading. Once the flowers are done, the central mound produces seeds, providing food for goldfinches and other birds. Full sun is best for all echinacea varieties. Also known as “Cone Flower.”
Coreopsis (Tickseed)
There are many varieties of Coreopsis, all of which can be used for cut flowers. The double varieties will have more presence in a bouquet. The more you cut the flowers, the more flowers the plant will produce. Coreopsis starts blooming in the summer and will continue into the fall. It is very drought tolerant once established.
Sweet William (Dianthus)
This is a wonderful hardy perennial for zones 4-10 with flowers that have a lovely clove fragrance. The cut flowers will last for 2 weeks in arrangements. There are many varieties of dianthus, from clusters of small flowers to short border flowers to taller flowers we call carnations, all part of the Dianthus family. Colors can range from pink and purple to white and yellow, as well as bi-color combinations.
Pincushion Flower (Scabiosa)
Photo: glossy-scabiosis-1383821_1920
Scabiosa has charming flowers that look like pin cushions and will last for over a week in bouquets. The flowers can be pink, purple, white, or blue. Each plant produces a profusion of blooms; the more you cut, the more the plant grows.
Garden Phlox (Phlox paniculata)
Phlox flowers have a delicate sweet scent, making them a wonderful addition to a bouquet. Phlox does best in full sun. Look for mildew resistant varieties, as that is an issue for Garden Phlox. There is a variety of Creeping Phlox, which is a wonderful early spring blooming ground cover. For cut flowers, be sure to get the Garden Phlox.
Russian sage (Perovskia atriplicifolia)
Heat, cold, drought tolerant, and deer and rabbit resistant, Russian sage has prolific spikes of blue flowers that pollinators love. This is a very hardy plant to have in your garden and it is easy to grow. It flowers most of the summer.
Shasta Daisy (Leucanthemum x superbum)
Leucanthemum is a long-lived perennial which produces masses of single white flowers. The bright gold center makes for an attractive flower in bouquets. The bloom time can last from early June through late July. Cut frequently to prolong the bloom period. Hardy in zones 5-9, Shastas grow best in full sun and well-drained soil. You may be able to get a second round of flowers by cutting the plant back when the blooms are done. Very popular with pollinators. Also known as Shasta daisies.
Annuals for cut flowers
Annual flowers tend to have a much longer bloom period—they can bloom all summer—but you have to start them each year. Our favorite annuals, zinnias and snapdragons, take 60-100 days to reach maturity, depending on the variety. In our case, we start the seeds early so that they are ready to plant as soon as danger of frost is past. If you wait until frost free date to plant seeds—May 15 in our area—you don’t get flowers until the middle of August. Most annuals can start from seed fairly easily, but you do need a sunny warm spot for them to grow until it is time to plant outside.
Most versions of these flowers that you see at markets in the spring are the shorter varieties. The taller varieties are a bit more work. Plan on starting seeds inside for most of these.
All of these will grow 36-48 inches tall. They benefit from supports, such as staking or netting. Otherwise, the flower heads are so heavy that wind or rain can knock the stems down. The alternative is to plant densely so that the plants support each other. Depending on your individual climate and cutting needs, dense planting may be the way to go.
Cutting ageratum:
Ageratum houstonianum is different from the bedding ageratum, but the same gorgeous blue flowers. These have tall, long stems and the flowers last for about 10 days in bouquets. A great accent flower in mixed arrangements. Our favorite variety is Blue Horizon, 80-100 days to maturity.
Basil flowers:
Yes, let some of your basil go to flower and then add to arrangements. There are ornamental varieties, grown specifically for their scent and flowers as well—cinnamon, lemon, sweet Thai, and Aromatto are some. After you cut the flowers, the basil plant will continue to produce more leaves and more flowers. Basil flowers cannot be refrigerated, but last very well in bouquets. Basil matures around 60-65 days.
Calendula:
Calendula officinalis has cheerful orange and yellow flowers that are completely edible and look like a type of daisy. Also called pot marigold, they mature at 50-55 days, which is speedy compared to a lot of the flowers. They bloom in cool and hot weather. Calendula can re-seed if left undisturbed.
Celosia:
These take a while to grow to full-sized, but have the advantage of being usable at every stage of growth. The feathery plumes of Celway Mix or Sunday Mix grow more quickly (90-100 days) than the large head varieties, such as Cramer’s Mix or Chief Mix (90-120 days). They also work as dried flowers. The large head celosia, also known as cox comb or brain flower, does not like to be rained on. Celosia can last for weeks as a fresh cut flower or months as a dried flower.
Rudbeckia:
Also known as Black-eyed Susan. There are many varieties, and the annual varieties have prolific blooms and an extended season. They will also re-seed if you leave some flowers to die off on the plant and drop seeds. Our favorite annual is Prairie Sun, which takes about 90-105 days to be ready for cutting.
Snapdragons:
These are favorites, because you can plant them early, about four weeks before the last official frost. They bloom well early, take a break during the hottest part of the summer, and then have a resurgence. The tall varieties for cutting definitely need support. Our favorites are the Potomac series, which has a lot of wonderful colors. 110-120 days to maturity, with a height of 40-60 inches. There are dozens of color combinations and colors from which to choose.
Sunflowers:
There are many different varieties. The classic sunflower is a single flower on a single stem. Most sunflower varieties are one and done. That means they produce one sunflower per plant, and that’s it. Do not prune the top to try to make the plant branch out as that is the only bloom on the plant. The Pro Cut series can mature in 60 days, which seems fast compared to the 90-100 day varieties. You need to direct seed these as they do not transplant well. Plant 5-10 seeds, or however many you want at a time, every few weeks, in order to enjoy them over a period of time. You can plant them four inches apart, and sunflowers do not need supports. There are a few varieties that will produce multiple blooms, and the flowers will be smaller in size, about 3 inches in diameter.
Zinnias:
Classic for a reason! They are great and keep on blooming all summer and fall. They are susceptible to powdery mildew in humid or rainy weather. There are lots of colors and they are all cheerful. Our favorite type is the Benarys Giant series, which can grow to 50 inches tall, and takes 75-90 days before ready to cut flowers. Staking or netting is highly recommended!
What criteria should you look for in a garden center or seed company?
If you are starting your own seeds, then make sure you obtain seeds from a good company. Check out reviews and see what people say. Were the seeds shipped in a timely manner? Were the correct seeds shipped? Is there growing information available? Seeds are at their best for 1-2 years, so make sure you use fresh seeds for best germination rates.
When using plants that have been started for you, look for a grower who has a way to start plants early, such as in a greenhouse or protected tunnel, and who has a diversity of flowers available. A local grower can help with varieties that grow particularly well in your area.
You want to check out how the provider grows. They should be transparent about growing methods; pesticide-free, chemical-free, organic, non-GMO, sustainable, conventional, IPM. Whatever way they grow, you should be able to find it out. You want your flowers to be clean from pesticides, as that affects your pollinators and your home environment.
Look for how long the grower has been there. A nursery who has been growing for over 10 years has learned how to deal with the problems that crop up. A farmer that has been growing for over 20 years has learned how to make farming sustainable for the farm, the farmer, and the customer.
Tip from the farmer: Whether you grow annuals or perennials, you want to make sure you continually cut the flowers. Your goal is to have flowers; your plant’s goal is to reproduce seeds. Cutting the flowers encourages the plant to keep producing more flowers. Once the flowers have died on the plant, the plant thinks its mission is over and it does not need to produce any more flowers. To keep a constant production of flowers, keep cutting! If there are imperfect or past-their-prime flowers, snip them off so that the plant will grow more flowers.
Conclusion
Perennials or annuals? Some of each? You have to weigh the amount of work required for each and what you want to get out of it. Whatever you grow, you will love the flowers!
Happy growing!
–Ruth